Monday, October 4, 2010

COMFORT FOOD, PART II: Coq Au Vin


Chris was sick last week, and I was being careful not to catch his bug or the germs my little second graders carry... so we settled into a weekend at home free of any plans. After large amounts of vitamin C and liquids, sleeping in, impromptu naps and lots of couch time, we were needing more than rest to feel better. We were craving a really good dinner.

It's times like those when we're under the weather, have chilly weather or are just in a funk, comfort food is all that will do. Something that we always had as a kid, an all-time favorite splurge meal or food we only manage to eat every once in while are the only things we seem to want to eat. Lounging around, I could only think about a French dish my uncle recently reminded me of: the delicious French "Coq Au Vin".

I hadn't had this decadent chicken dinner since we spent Christmas in Paris in 2008, nor had I ever attempted to make it myself. With nothing to do but plan for, shop for and cook dinner for our night in, it was on...

Let me start the recipe-talk by saying that Coq Au Vin (and most French food for that matter) isn't something you try to make healthy. It calls for bacon, bone-in chicken, a little butter and oil. This is comfort food... Go for it! You don't eat it everyday :) I've adapted the recipe below based on the following things I learned while making Coq Au Vin:

-The breast meat wasn't nearly as flavorful as the legs. It also lacked moisture. In the future I'll use thighs and legs.
-I'm not a huge fan of small whole onions. I prefer caramelized, sliced onions. I've changed the recipe to double the sliced onion and skip the frozen small whole onions altogether.
-I paired the chicken dish with mashed Yukon gold potatoes, which I boiled in the leftover chicken stock for added flavor. The buttery texture of the potatoes (without having to add actual butter) and simple seasoning of salt and pepper were a perfect compliment!


COQ AU VIN (Chicken Cooked with Wine)
recipe adapted from Ina Garten, www.foodnetwork.com
serves 3-5


Ingredients:
  • good olive oil (~2 tablespoons)
  • 4 ounces good bacon or pancetta, diced
  • ~4 thighs and 4 legs
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/2 pound carrots, cut diagonally in 1-inch pieces
  • 1 yellow onions, sliced (double if desired-- I haven't tried it this way yet)
  • 1 teaspoon chopped garlic
  • 1/4 cup Cognac or good brandy
  • 1/2 bottle (375 ml) good dry red wine such as Burgundy (I used a French Pinot Noir)
  • 1 cup good chicken stock
  • 10 fresh thyme sprig
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, divided
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 pound cremini mushrooms, stems removed and thickly sliced
Method:

Preheat the oven to 250 degrees F.

Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven. Add the bacon and cook over medium heat for 8 to 10 minutes, until lightly browned. Remove the bacon to a plate with a slotted spoon.

Meanwhile, lay the chicken out on paper towels and pat dry. Liberally sprinkle the chicken on both sides with salt and pepper. When the bacon is removed, brown the chicken pieces in batches in a single layer for about 5 minutes, turning to brown evenly. Remove the chicken to the plate with the bacon and continue to brown until all the chicken is done. Set aside.

Add the carrots, onions, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper to the pan and cook over medium heat for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onions are lightly browned. Add the garlic and cook for 1 more minute. Add the Cognac and put the bacon, chicken, and any juices that collected on the plate into the pot. Add the wine, chicken stock, and thyme and bring to a simmer. Cover the pot with a tight fitting lid and place in the oven for 30 to 40 minutes, until the chicken is just not pink. Remove from the oven and place on top of the stove.

Mash 1 tablespoon of butter and the flour together and stir into the stew. In a medium saute pan, add the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter and cook the mushrooms over medium-low heat for 5 to 10 minutes, until browned. Add to the stew. Bring the stew to a simmer and cook for another 10 minutes. Season to taste. Serve hot (over those mashed Yukon gold potatoes I mentioned!).

My curious kitchen assistant

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